How to choose shears: material to cut and cutting direction
To cut thin sheet metal you need tinsnips, chosen with the cutting direction (right, left or straight) that follows your line. For branches and greenery you need pruning shears, and for thicker sheet a bench shear. In the collection the hand shears measure from 245 to 300 mm and weigh roughly between 0.2 and 0.5 kg; the bench-mounted models are much heavier. The figure that decides is the cutting capacity, but it has to be read together with the material it refers to.
The types
- Tinsnips: sturdy blades for cutting thin sheet metal by hand. This is the basic type for flashings, gutters and ducts, such as the Stanley STHT0-14103 tinsnips.
- Straight-cut, right-cut and left-cut snips: the same snips come in three versions. Straight-cut is for straight lines, right and left for curves that turn one way or the other. The Ergo FatMax right-cut snips have sister versions in straight-cut and left-cut.
- Compound-action snips: the compound lever multiplies the force of your hand, so for the same thickness you make less effort. Useful if you cut a lot during the day, such as the FatMax compound-action snips.
- Pass-through cut and long-nose snips: the pass-through cut is designed for long, continuous cuts; long noses are for reaching into tight spaces and making precise cuts.
- Pruning shears: for greenery and the maintenance of gardens and outdoor areas, not for metal.
- Bench shear: fixed to a surface, for sheet thicker than your hand can cut with tinsnips.
- Sets of snips and scissors: several versions in the same pack, or scissors for specific uses on light materials.
How to choose by job
| Job | What to get | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Sheet metal work and roofing | Tinsnips, straight version plus one right-cut and one left-cut | Long straight cuts and curves in both directions |
| Building services and ductwork | Compound-action snips | Repeated cuts with less strain on the wrist |
| Tight spaces, internal cuts | Long-nose snips | The blades reach where ordinary snips cannot get in |
| Workshop, thicker sheet | Bench shear | The bench takes the force that the hand cannot supply |
| Grounds maintenance | Pruning shears | Blades made for wood, not for sheet metal |
| Occasional use | A straight-cut pair of tinsnips | Covers most simple cuts |
The features to look at
- Cutting capacity (mm): in the collection the values range from 0.6 and 0.8 mm up to 35, 40 and 60 mm. They cannot be compared with each other: the small values generally indicate the thickness of the sheet, the large ones the diameter of the branches or materials to be cut. Always read the material and the unit before deciding.
- Cutting direction: straight, left or right. If you work on sheet metal, choose the direction according to the curve you most often have to make.
- Length (mm): from 245 to 300 mm for hand shears. The longer they are, the more leverage you have and the longer the cut; the shorter they are, the easier they are to handle.
- Material: steel, forged steel, chrome-vanadium steel, carbon steel. The handles are made of resin or rubber. Blades in forged or chrome-vanadium steel are the ones designed for heavy use.
- Weight (kg): under half a kilo for hand shears. On a job that lasts hours, a few grams less make a difference.
- Jaw type: standard or extra long, depending on how deep you need to reach.
Common mistakes
- Using sheet metal snips to cut wire, rod or screws. The blades get nicked and the cut is no longer clean afterwards.
- Comparing cutting capacities without looking at the material. A large number on pruning shears says nothing about sheet metal.
- Twisting the snips while cutting. The material must be fed in deep between the blades, close to the pivot, and the snips closed with a firm, straight movement.
- Choosing the wrong direction. To make a tight curve you need the direction that follows it; with the opposite one the cut jams.
- Working sheet metal without cut-resistant gloves. Cut edges are as sharp as blades.
Frequently asked questions
Right-cut or left-cut snips: which do I need?
It depends on the curve you have to follow. For straight cuts the straight version is enough; for curves choose the version that follows the direction of the curve. Those who work on sheet metal every day often keep all three versions.
Can I cut stainless steel with tinsnips?
It depends on the model's data sheet: check that the cutting capacity refers to the material you need to work. Stainless steel is harder than mild steel, and the value does not necessarily apply to both.
How do I look after the blades?
Clean them after use, lubricate them and adjust the pivot so that the blades have no play. If the cut starts to bend the edge instead of cutting it, it is time to check the sharpness or replace the snips.
Do compound-action snips cut thicker material?
The compound lever reduces the effort your hand needs. The maximum thickness remains the one stated in the model's data sheet.
You will find all the versions in the shears and snips collection: if you have doubts about material, thickness or cutting direction, ask for a quote or advice from the AMES technicians.
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