How to choose nails: hammer, nailer or powder-actuated tool

A nail is chosen first of all according to the tool you drive it with: loose for the hammer, in strips or coils with the right angle for the nailer, specific for the powder-actuated tool. Then length, diameter and finish matter. In the collection you will find nails from a few millimetres up to 100 mm long, with diameters from under 1 mm to over 4 mm, in packs ranging from a few dozen up to thousands of pieces.

The types

• Carpentry nails for the hammer: loose, for timber and structures, such as the Pasini Reti carpentry nails.
• Strip or coil nails for nailers: designed to be loaded into the tool. Examples are the Stanley Type J nails, the 20° round-head nails and the 34° D-head nails by Milwaukee. The angle and the shape of the head must match those of the nailer.
• Nails for powder-actuated tools: for fixing elements to a substrate with a powder-actuated system.
• Tacks, brads and adhesive nails: for light fixings and finishing work, where great holding strength is not needed.

How to choose by job

The features to look at

• Length (mm): lengths range from a few millimetres up to 100 mm; for example 20, 25, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80 and 100 mm. As a practical rule, the nail should be at least twice as long as the thickness of the piece being fixed, so that it goes well into the substrate.
• Diameter (mm): from about 0.6 to over 4 mm. A larger diameter holds more but risks splitting the timber, especially near the edges.
• Material: steel, iron, wrought iron, but also nylon and plastic. Nylon or plastic nails are not carpentry nails: always check the data sheet for the intended use.
• Smooth or ring-shank: the ring-shank is harder to pull out.
• Finish: bright, galvanised, nickel-plated, antique iron. Galvanised for outdoors; decorative finishes for exposed work.
• Pack: blister or box, from 100 pieces up to almost 3,000. A large box is only worthwhile if the nailer works every day.
• Angle and head (for nailers): for example 20° with round head or 34° with D head.

Common mistakes

• Buying nails that do not match the nailer. Angle, head shape and length must be those permitted by the manufacturer; otherwise the tool jams.
• Choosing nails that are too short. They hold poorly and pull out. If too long, on the other hand, they come through the other side.
• Using bright nails outdoors. After a few months they rust and stain the timber.
• Driving near the edge or at an angle. The timber splits and the nail bends. Drive perpendicular to the surface and away from the edges.
• Forgetting protection. With nailers and powder-actuated tools you need safety glasses and hearing protection, and your hand must never be in the line of fire.

Frequently asked questions

Which nails do I need for my nailer?

Those with the angle and head specified by the tool's manufacturer, for example 20° with round head or 34° with D head. Also check the permitted length and diameter.

Ring-shank or smooth?

The ring-shank holds more because it is harder to pull out. The smooth one goes in with less effort and is used where little holding strength is needed.

Can I use hammer nails in the nailer?

No. Only strip or coil nails made for that tool can be used in the nailer.

When do I need the galvanised nail?

Outdoors and in damp environments, where a bright nail would tend to oxidise.

You will find all the models in the Nails collection; if you are not sure about the angle or size for your nailer, ask for a quote or advice from the AMES technicians.