How to choose a ratchet: drive, torque and cordless or manual

For small screws and nuts and tight spaces, a ratchet with a 1/4″ or 3/8″ drive is enough, even a 12 V cordless one. For larger bolts you need the 1/2″ drive and, in a cordless model, one with more torque: in the collection the maximum torque runs from 47 to 108 Nm. The manual ratchet remains the choice for occasional use and for places where a motorised head will not fit; the air ratchet is for those who already have compressed air in the workshop.

The types

• Reversible manual ratchet: the classic type, with a selector to change the direction of rotation. It is inexpensive, never runs flat and is enough for occasional use.
• Ergonomic ratchet: shaped handle for working for long periods without tiring your hand.
• Air ratchet: runs on compressed air, useful in the workshop for repeated tightening.
• Cordless ratchet: in the collection mainly 12 V, like the Milwaukee M12 FIR14G2 1/4″ and M12 FIR12G2 1/2″, and 18 V like the DeWalt 1/4″ and 3/8″. Some are sold without battery or charger (bare tool).
• Long-head ratchet: the extended head helps to reach nuts in awkward places, like the M12 FUEL long-head ratchet.

How to choose by job

The features to look at

• Square drive: 1/4″, 3/8″, 1/2″ (and 3/4″ for the heaviest cases). It must match the sockets you use. The small drive is for tight spaces and low torque, the large one for bolts of larger diameter.
• Maximum torque: in the collection from 47 to 108 Nm. For nuts that undo easily the low value is enough; for large or rusted bolts you need the high one. The ratchet does not replace the torque wrench when a precise torque is specified.
• Voltage: 12 V or 18 V. The 12 V models are more compact, the 18 V ones have more power in reserve.
• No-load speed: up to 800 rpm. The higher it is, the faster you run the nut down to the stop; the final force depends on the torque.
• Number of teeth (in manual models): from 45 to 90. With more teeth the minimum swing angle is reduced: 5° is enough with 72 teeth, 4° with 90 teeth. Useful when you have little room to move the handle.
• Length and weight: from about 155 to 430 mm and from a few hundred grams upwards. A long handle gives leverage but takes up room.

Common mistakes

• Extending the handle with a pipe: it strains the mechanism and can break it. For a seized nut you need a suitable tool, not an improvised lever.
• Using the wrong socket: a socket that is too large or worn rounds off the nut. The exact size, pushed fully home, avoids the damage.
• Relying on the cordless ratchet for final torque: it runs the nut down and tightens, but if the torque is specified you finish with a torque wrench.
• Ordering a cordless model without checking what it includes: some are bare tool only, with no battery or charger.
• Confusing the ratchet with the jack: the first tightens nuts, the second lifts loads. They are two different collections.

Frequently asked questions

Is a 3/8″ or a 1/2″ ratchet better?

The 3/8″ is the most versatile for general maintenance. The 1/2″ is for larger bolts and higher torque, but it is bulkier.

Does a cordless ratchet replace a manual one?

No. It is quicker on repeated tightening, but the manual one remains lighter and never runs flat. Many workshops keep both.

Can I use the same sockets on different ratchets?

Yes, if the square drive is the same. To go from one drive to another you need adaptors.

What does "bare tool" mean?

That the ratchet is supplied without battery and without charger. It is fine if you already have batteries from the same series of the same brand.

You will find manual, air and cordless models in the Ratchets collection: to choose the drive and power, request a quote or ask the AMES technicians for advice.