How to choose a club hammer: weight and handle type

For striking chisels, points and stakes you need a club hammer of 1 kg to 1.5 kg: it is the most common weight in the collection (1000, 1250 and 1500 g head), with a short handle in wood, fibreglass or synthetic material. If you work all day choose a fibreglass or synthetic handle, which withstands impacts better; for occasional hand use wood is fine too. For heavier demolition there is also the 1.8 kg model.

The types

• Club hammer with wooden handle: ash handle, like the Stanley club hammers with wooden handle. It is the classic type, light to handle and easy to replace.
• Club hammer with synthetic handle: the handle in glass fibre or synthetic material, with a synthetic grip, like the Stanley Dynagrip club hammers. It withstands impacts better.
• Exocore club hammer: a DeWalt 1.8 kg model, for striking with more weight, like the DeWalt DWHT56026-1 Exocore club hammer.
• Bricklayer's club hammer: the basic club hammer, like the Fervi bricklayer's club hammer.
• Square-faced club hammer: with a square, smooth striking face, for striking chisels and stakes squarely.

How to choose by job

To choose well, think about how many blows you make in a day and how much room you have to move. A club hammer that is too heavy, used for hours, tires the wrist and makes you lose accuracy. One that is too light makes you strike the same spot several times. The right weight is the one that lets you strike squarely without forcing.

The features to look at

• Head weight (g): in the collection 1000, 1250 and 1500 g, in addition to the 1.8 kg model. A high weight gives more force but tires you sooner; for precision work the low value is enough.
• Handle material: ash (wood), fibreglass or glass fibre. Wood is traditional; fibreglass and synthetic are more resistant to moisture and impacts.
• Grip length (mm): the models have a short handle, between about 213 and 240 mm. A short handle gives control and lets you work in tight spaces.
• Head material: steel, in some cases carbon steel. It is the material that has to withstand the striking.
• Shape and finish of the face: square and smooth, suited to striking squarely.
• Handle construction: two-piece, with the head fixed to the handle.

Common mistakes

• Using a club hammer with a chipped head. A chip can fly off and hit the person working.
• Striking with the face at an angle. The head can slip and damage the chisel; always strike squarely.
• Gripping close to the head. You lose force and control: grip towards the end of the handle.
• Not checking the handle fixing. If the handle is loose or damaged the head can come off.
• Working without goggles and gloves. Chips and vibration are a real risk.
• Choosing on weight alone. The handle and the striking face matter too: two club hammers of the same weight can perform very differently.

Frequently asked questions

What weight should I choose for striking a chisel?

For everyday jobs 1 kg or 1.25 kg is enough. Move up to 1.5 kg or more only if you need to demolish and already have a good grip.

Wooden or fibreglass handle?

For daily use fibreglass or synthetic is better, as it is more resistant. Wood is fine for occasional use and can be replaced.

What is the difference between a club hammer and a sledgehammer?

The club hammer has a short handle and is held in one hand; the sledgehammer has a long handle and is used with two hands to strike with more force.

What do you use a club hammer with?

It is used with chisels, points and stakes: you hold the hammer in one hand and the tool in the other, ideally with a hand guard.

When should I replace the club hammer?

When the head is chipped or deformed, or the handle is damaged or loose.

All the models are in the club hammers collection: to choose weight and handle for your job, ask the AMES technicians for a quote or for advice.