How to choose a wood chisel: width and handle

The wood chisel is for cutting recesses, trimming joints and forming the mortises for hinges and locks. Choose the blade width according to the mortise to be cut: in the collection the blades range from 6 to 25 mm, with complete sets for those who do not want to change often. For working by hand only, a comfortable handle is enough; if you strike with a mallet you need a handle designed for striking.

The types

• Single-bevel chisels: the blade is bevelled on one side only, the bevel. It is the classic shape for joiners and window fitters. For example the chisels with varnished wooden handle Stanley, available in several widths.
• Multipurpose chisel: a model designed for various jobs, not just precision joinery. Like the multipurpose chisel FatMax Stanley.
• Chisels with dual-material handle: a softer, non-slip grip, useful for working for long periods. An example is the wood chisels Dynagrip Stanley.
• Gouge sets: channel blades for shaping and cutting curved surfaces.
• Sets of 3, 4 or 5 pieces: assortments in different widths, often in a case, a blister pack or with a sharpening guide.

How to choose by job

The features to look at

• Blade width: 6, 8, 10, 14, 16, 18, 22 and 25 mm are the sizes available. Choose the one for the most common mortise in your work.
• Blade length: from about 100 to over 160 mm. Longer blades reach deeper, short ones give more control.
• Blade material: carbon steel, chrome steel or tempered chrome carbon steel. The harder it is, the longer it keeps its edge, but the harder it is to sharpen.
• Handle: wood, polypropylene or dual-material. Wood is traditional and suits the mallet; dual-material is more comfortable if you work with sweaty hands.
• Blade type: standard, bevel-edged or specialised. The bevelled edge helps in recesses with tight corners.
• Packaging: loose, in blister packs, with a tag or in a plastic case. The case protects the edge in transport.

Common mistakes

• Striking with a carpenter's hammer a chisel that does not have a handle designed for it: the handle gets ruined.
• Pushing the chisel towards your body instead of away from it.
• Working without clamping the workpiece.
• Removing too much wood in a single blow instead of in thin layers.
• Leaving the chisel without its cap in the toolbox, and losing the edge.

Frequently asked questions

What sizes do I need to start with?

A set of 3 or 4 pieces with blades of 6, 12, 18 and 25 mm covers almost all common jobs.

How do you use the bevel?

First score the outline with the bevel facing the part to be removed, then remove the wood in thin layers.

Can I use a wood chisel on masonry?

No. The edge is ruined immediately. For masonry and concrete you need bricklayer's or demolition chisels.

How often does it need sharpening?

Whenever it takes more force to cut or the wood tears instead of cutting cleanly. A sharp chisel works with less effort and is safer.

You will find the chisels and sets in the Wood chisels collection: to choose widths and handle according to the job, request a quote or ask the AMES technicians for advice.