Bolt cutters: the blades are adjusted, the handles are not extended

You bring me a pair of bolt cutters with a crescent-shaped notch in the blades. “It cut a rod and then nothing.” I ask what kind of rod it was: a piece of hardened steel, from a chain. The bolt cutters did what they could, and the blades gave way instead of the rod.

Length is capacity

Bolt cutters multiply the strength of your arms through the leverage of the handles and the linkage in the head. The longer they are, the larger the diameter they cut. That is why you find them in such different sizes: the mini for the toolbox, for wire, metal ties and small rods; the medium models for welded mesh and thin reinforcing bars; the long ones for thicker rods, padlocks and bolts.

The stated capacity applies to mild steel. On harder materials the diameter you can cut is reduced, and on hardened steels such as chains, quality padlocks or springs, ordinary bolt cutters risk ruining the blades.

Forged or tubular handles

Tubular handles are lighter and easier to carry around. Forged handles are stiffer: the force reaches the blades without the handle flexing, and they cope better with heavy use. In the Stanley collection you will find both versions, in various lengths.

Adjusting the blades

With use the blades drift apart and no longer close properly in the centre: the cut edge gets crushed instead of cut. On the head there are adjusting bolts, usually eccentric: you loosen the locknut, turn until the blades just touch without forcing them, and tighten again. The check is simple: looking at the head against the light with the handles closed, the blades should meet without overlapping.

If the blades overlap, the first time you close them they damage each other.

The mistakes I see in the workshop

• Pipes slipped over the handles to get more leverage. You exceed the design capacity and bend the handles or crack the blades.
• Cutting with the tips of the blades. The material should be placed as far back as possible, near the pivot, where the force is greatest.
• Twisting the bolt cutters during the cut to help yourself. The blades take side load and chip.
• Cutting steel wire rope. The rope is crushed and frays: you need dedicated cutters.

Safety

The cut piece flies off, especially with rods. Always wear glasses, and watch out for anyone close by and for where the free end points. Keep your feet out of the path of the handles when the piece gives way.

What I need to know

Tell me what materials you cut (mesh, rod, bolts, wire, padlocks), the largest diameter and whether you carry it around or it stays on site. I will suggest the right length, and if you need a tool for harder steels or for ropes as well, I will tell you straight away, instead of letting you discover the limit on the blades.

We stock these

A few items from the range we keep. If you cannot find the size or the model you need, just ask: what you see online is only part of what we can source for you.

Bolt cutters - tubular handles (1-17-755) StanleyStanley Bolt cutters - tubular handles (1-17-753) StanleyStanley Bolt cutters - tubular handles (1-17-752) StanleyStanley Bolt cutters - tubular handles (1-17-754) StanleyStanley Bolt cutters - tubular handles (1-17-750) StanleyStanley Bolt cutters - tubular handles (1-17-751) StanleyStanley

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