How to choose a wood handsaw: length and teeth
To cut boards, battens and wooden panels by hand you need a handsaw with a 450-550 mm blade: the length gives you long strokes and straight cuts. If you want fast cuts on rough timber choose larger teeth; if the cut needs to be clean, for example on a panel or a finish, choose finer teeth. In the collection the blade is steel, 0.85-1 mm thick, with induction-hardened teeth.
The types
- Joiner's handsaws: the classic hand saw, with a wide blade and no frame, such as the Fervi 0869. Fine for everyday cuts.
- Jet Cut handsaws by Stanley, with a "Bi-Material" grip (two materials) and hardened teeth. The Jet Cut Fine version is designed for a finer cut.
- Tradecut handsaws, such as the Tradecut 500 mm with 7 teeth per inch: a 500 mm blade with 7 teeth per inch, stated in the name.
- Other lines from brands such as DeWalt, Vigor and Fervi, including those called Drees and Prizecut.
How to choose by job
| Job | What to get | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Carpentry and site work: battens, rough boards | Long blade 500-550 mm, few teeth per inch | Fast cutting; the long blade makes long strokes. |
| Joinery and panels | Fine teeth ("Fine" versions) | The cut is smoother and there is less to finish. |
| Occasional use, home and garden | A standard joiner's handsaw | A 450-500 mm blade is enough, without paying for features you don't use. |
| Heavy everyday use | Hardened teeth and coated grip | The blade lasts longer and your hand tires less. |
The features to look at
Length and blade length
The overall length ranges from 450 to 700 mm, the blade from 380 to 550 mm. A long blade cuts faster and straighter, a short blade is easier to control on small jobs.
Teeth per inch
This is the figure that decides how fine the cut is. Few teeth per inch cut quickly but leave a rough cut; many teeth cut more slowly but cleanly. A model such as the Tradecut has 7 teeth per inch.
Blade thickness and material
Steel from 0.85 to 1 mm. A thin blade goes in with less effort, a thicker one stays more rigid.
Tooth treatment
Induction-hardened teeth last longer. If you often cut hardwoods or wood with forgotten nails, it is worth it.
Blade-to-handle fixing
The blade can be screwed on or ultrasonically welded. With a screwed-on blade the fixing can be checked and tightened; with a welded blade the saw is a single piece, with no parts that work loose.
Handle and guard
A coated handle helps grip and comfort. The blade guard, in plastic or cardboard, keeps the teeth safe in transport.
Common mistakes
- Pressing down on the blade: the teeth cut on their own. With long strokes and no forcing, the cut stays straight.
- Not securing the workpiece: if the wood moves, a crooked cut is certain. Use a trestle or bench.
- Using a carpenter's handsaw on a panel: coarse teeth cause splintering. For clean cuts you need fine teeth.
- Storing the blade without a guard: teeth that touch other tools are blunted straight away.
- Leaving resin on the blade: a dirty blade runs badly. It needs cleaning.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between a handsaw and a frame saw?
The handsaw has a wide, rigid blade without a frame, suited to straight cuts in boards and panels. A frame saw has the blade stretched on a structure.
How long should it be?
For carpentry work 500-550 mm; for jobs at home or with small pieces 450 mm or less is enough.
Can I also cut metal?
No: the teeth in the collection are for wood. For metal you need a saw with a suitable blade.
How do I start a cut without the blade slipping?
Mark the line, guide the blade with your thumb held above the teeth and make a few short strokes. Then continue with long strokes.
The Stanley, Fervi and other brands' handsaws are in the Wood handsaws collection: to find out which blade and tooth pattern suit you, or for a quote, write to the AMES technicians.
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