Dripping tap: cartridge, washer or limescale?

“The kitchen mixer tap is dripping, I'll get a new one.” That may be the right call, but nine times out of ten the body of the tap is sound and one part has worn out, which is a few minutes' work to put right. In the taps and valves collection we stock exactly those spares, as well as complete taps and mixers.

First work out what tap you have

The single-lever mixer works with a cartridge: if it drips with the lever closed or if the lever is stiff, it is almost always the cartridge. The traditional crosshead tap has a spindle with the washer at the bottom: there you replace the washer or the spindle.

Cartridges are not all the same: they vary in diameter, height and the shape of the fitting. There is only one piece of advice: take it apart and bring it to the counter. A photo with a tape measure next to it helps, but having the part in your hand is better.

Low flow doesn't mean a broken tap

If the water comes out in spurts or with a low flow rate, first look at the aerator, the little filter at the tip of the spout. Limescale blocks it a bit at a time. You unscrew it, soak it in vinegar or descaler, and rinse it out; if it is damaged you replace it. There are male and female threads and different diameters: here too, bring the old one.

The same goes for shower heads: those with rubber nozzles are cleaned by rubbing them with your fingers, while rigid ones go into descaler.

Flexible hoses: replace them before they fail

The stainless steel braided flexible hoses that connect the mixer to the under-basin valves age. If the braid is oxidised, if there are rust stains or the hose is crushed, replace them: when they fail they do so at night or when you are on holiday. When you order them, check the length and the type of connection, M/F or F/F, and the thread size.

Ball valves and pressure reducing valve

The ball valve is chosen with a lever or a butterfly handle depending on the space: in a narrow recess a long lever won't turn. The heavy-duty versions have more material and are better suited to frequent operation. Open and close it every so often: a valve that hasn't been touched for years seizes up on exactly the day you need it.

If at home or in the workshop you hear water hammer, flexible hoses that swell up, or seals that don't last long, it may be high mains pressure. A pressure reducing valve upstream of the system solves it, but it must be installed with a filter ahead of it and set with a pressure gauge, not by eye.

Water heater and washing machine

On a water heater the safety valve is not an optional extra and you don't plug it if it drips while heating: that drip is its job. If it leaks all the time, then it needs checking or replacing. For the washing machine you will find dedicated taps, elbows and inlet and outlet hoses.

What I need to know

• The old part, or a photo with clearly legible measurements.
• Size and type of thread (1/2", 3/4", male or female).
• For flexible hoses: length and connections.
• For valves: diameter, lever or butterfly handle, frequent or occasional use.
• Whether it is a job at a single point or a supply for several flats.

We have these in store

A selection from the range we hold. If you can't find the size or model you need, just ask: what you see online is only part of what we can source for you.

Taps and valves: basin - bidet trap ART.979A.M.E.S. srl Taps and valves: basin trapA.M.E.S. srl Taps and valves: bidet trapA.M.E.S. srl Taps and valves: copper floats ART.380 - 180x1'1/4A.M.E.S. srl Under-sink valve art. 540A.M.E.S. srl Under-sink valve art. 510A.M.E.S. srl

See the whole category: Taps and Valves